Monday, August 29, 2016

Ahhh Venice, Part 3

Thank you for joining me again for Ahh Venice, Part 3. I hope you enjoyed parts 1 and 2. If you would like to read part 1 click here or if you want to read part 2 click here. This final post about Venice will be my last post about Italy for a while. I'll need to travel back there to get more material. I have a lot more photos to use, but I'm getting lazy and don't have too much more to say about Venice so I think I will just make this a stream of consciousness post where I discuss the photos you see and other random things.
Boat in Venice Italy
As you can see from the lede photo, people need a place to tie up their boats. Cars aren't allowed on the islands and neither are scooters, it's walking or nothing. Most people have boats instead of cars. I'm pretty sure I saw a few teenagers using the family boat for a date and I also saw a few families going out in the family boat for some "road trip" to who know's where. 

Some places had a ring bolted into a wall where you could tie your painter off and moor your vessel. Look at me with all my nautical talk. Pretty soon I'll be tying sheep shanks and clamoring up the mizzenmast to luff the main royal like a boss; not really I don't think I like heights on a boat. Anyway, in Venice you can moor to a ring or one of the myriad posts sunk into a canal or where ever. Like this:

Venice Italy

I'm going to assume that this is "reserved mooring" a "slip" as it were, because why else would someone tie a chair to a post like this. There was essentially zero space to put the chair on the "dock" which consisted of a 1x12 board (2.54x30.48 for you metric folks). This does look like as good a place as any to tie up your boat. I imagine you sit in the chair in the boat and hang out drinking prosecco with your friends.

Venice Italy

There are more places to moor your boat by the Arsenal. I really wish I could have gone in and taken a tour, or more for me poked around, at the Arsenal because it looked impressive. There just wasn't a way to do that. Near where I took the above photo there was a shipwright shop and I was too shy to ask some people I'm convinced didn't speak English if I could photograph them working. I was quite far from any tourist areas.

There is an art museum near the Arsenal and it has large windows where you can get a peek into the huge space where they used to, or maybe still, hoisted ships out of the water for repairs. The museum is in some sort of old manufacturing or repair facility. One room had a bunch of old forges along the walls. Mostly it was some giant, empty rooms.

Venice Italy

See, giant and empty. There were a few rooms like this and in one of them the glass door was broken and the light was beautiful and I had just been looking at a lot of art, so I got creative.

Venice Italy

Tempered glass is neato. Speaking of getting creative and mooring boats, remember I was talking about that, I did see a superbly-impressive mooring job by someone who perhaps couldn't afford the best boat in the world.

Boat in Venice Italy

I for sure would be hesitant to  ride the canals of Venice in this thing, so I'm guessing it is for kids. You can toss them in here and pull them behind your boat when they get annoying maybe. I really liked how many doors just seemed to open right into the canal. Many of them had steps, making it look like perhaps there was just a good flood happening.

Venice Italy

Others didn't have steps as if the people who built the building realized that steps into the water might be a bit silly. It could also be that the doors without steps were set back further into the buildings. What do I look like, an architect?

Venice Italy

It's pretty damned difficult to take a bad photograph in Venice. I'm sure some people can, I did take a few bad ones but I'm not going to show them to you here. Almost every door is interesting and there are so many beautiful things to see.

Venice Italy

Look, another gorgeous doorway. That's almost the end of it as far as door photos go in this post. There is just one more, I promise. Don't misunderstand buildings kind of have doors, so you will see some more, but not as the focus. This next one combines some things I'm working on and a door.

Venice Italy

All over Prague, and to a lesser extent Europe, I see randomly discarded shoes. At least in this photo there is a reason for it. Venetians just put their garbage out the front door to the building on collection day and the trash man (yes, I'm suuuuper sexist) collects it. In Prague, I see discarded shoes in totally random places. At times I also see discarded garments. Just the other day I saw a pair of women's jean shorts on the side walk and I can only think, "what is the story here" every time I see things like that.

Gondola in Venice Italy

I got a little framing and layering on in the photo up there. I thought it was a fun take on the usual gondola photo. Why not, right?

Canal in Venice Italy

The canals are basically life in Venice. They are the roads and people need to use them. They are also a nasty shade of green. To be fair, all the water in the lagoon is the same nasty shade of green. It doesn't look like someplace you would want to swim.

Venice Italy

The above photo is also neat the Arsenal. in fact the only way to get into the giant ship maintenance area of the Arsenal I talked about earlier is via boat. I suppose you could figure out a way to break in to the Italian military garrison that blocks the land entrance, but I wouldn't try it. You can also see how the lagoon looks gross. The water doesn't even look very enticing at night.

Venice Italy

The smaller canals anyway look pretty yucky, The grand canal looks fine at night. Probably because there isn't as much light on it. I was told by some people that Venice smells bad too, thanks to the canals. It doesn't, so don't worry about that at all. They actually do a good job of dredging them to make sure the place doesn't reek.

Venice Italy

See, with some reflection action the water starts to look a little better at night in the smaller canals.

Venice Italy

Still not the best-looking water in the world.

Venice Italy at night

The Grand Canal looks fine at night though. I give myself bonus points for the neato reflection on the ripply water of the running lights of the passing boat that you can't see because the exposure was so long. It's a bit like a mini aquatic Pink Floyd show.

Venice Italy at night

No such laser-light luck with the photo above, but hey. You can't hit it out of the park every time. I mentioned that I stretched my street-photography legs while I was in Italy. I am still using them too, but I don't post a ton of those. I may make a post of my favorites at some point. From this trip my second-favorite street-style photo is this one below.

Venice Italy

I suppose if I were to give it a name it would be "Boy on Bridge in Venice" or something like that. To me it's just a great moment between friends with some nice layering and it comes together pretty well. 

Venice Italy

I liked this one a lot too mainly because of the subject matter. You're growing up in Venice and you want to play soccer, where do you go? There aren't really a lot of parks and I don't know if people would really appreciate a soccer match in the ones that do exist. This is one of the cooler pickup games I've seen with the old buildings in the background etc. 

Venice Italy

This one above too. You don't have a car on the islands in Venice, but if you travel you need to walk to the train station or wherever. It also have the obligatory hanging laundry action going on. Honestly photos don't get much more stereotypically Venice than this. I will close with a concept that I really enjoyed, having had to come up with a different solution to this same problem. When you have a street light this close to your window, you really do need to do something. I've been there. I waited until the 4th of July and shot the light out with a gun. This solution was is much more diplomatic.

Venice Italy

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Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Ahhh, Venice Part 2


Thanks for coming back for part two of Ahhh, Venice. If you somehow missed Ahhh, Venice Part 1 you can get to it by clicking here. I'm not really to sure were part two is going to go. To be completely honest, I have a whole lot of photos and I think I might just see where the stream of consciousness takes me and work it all out after that. I'm reasonably certain that I talked about how Venice is an expensive city last time. That is the truth, but it is, of course, known for being romantic. Romantic to the point that it's even pretty romantic when you're alone too. 
Woman in Venice Italy
Now, the lady you see above was not alone but I get the impression that she is really feeling the romance here. Just sitting, staring out into the lagoon watching the boats. This is a pretty excellent way to spend an hour, or more. I also sat at a few different places and watched boats. It's difficult not to, they are everywhere since cars aren't allowed. For some reason it is a whole lot more peaceful to watch boats go by than it is to watch cars. 
Speaking of boats, I discussed the Vaporetti last time. They are the water buses. You will need them if you want to get to any of the other islands. Check my last post for prices. I forgot to mention that you can buy the passes for them as soon as you arrive in Venice. There are a few stands, actual official stands, where you can buy the passes. They are by the largest foot bridge that leads from the mainland to the main island. There is also a large Vaporetto stop quite near the ticket stands, funny that. 
So I made it to Murano on the first day. It's the home of Venetian glass blowing. I'm pretty sure glass is also made elsewhere around Venice, but Murano really famous for it. If you forget that Murano is the glass capital of Venice you'll remember extremely quickly when you get close on the boat. There are giant glass works everywhere. Because this was really my first day, I hadn't even taken the time to wander around the main island so my first impressions of Venice were from Murano.
Murano, Venice Italy
Everywhere you look online and in travel magazines, not like I read those, you see the standard images of Venice with laundry hanging from every window. Open a new window and do a quick Google Image search for Venice, I'll wait. Thousands of photos of laundry. I told you. I'll only make you suffer three of those in this entire series. The first one I took was on Murano and here it is:
Murano, Venice Italy
I did see the lady putting this out, but I decided not to photograph her. A lot of Venetians look a little grumpy when they see a camera pointed their way. I can't blame them. I assume they are a little tired of people photographing them while they hang their undergarments etc. At the same time, if you don't want people to see you hang your laundry maybe you'll find space inside? The outdoor laundry hanging was like Florence times 1000. 
The other thing that was very similar to Florence and really the rest of the places I visited were the nicos in random places. As I said in my posts about Florence, which you can read if you click here, I really like this. When you're wandering down some new little street and you see a quiet little piece of wall or a corner where people have been saying a little prayer for generations it makes you feel good. I found this one on Murano also. 
Murano, Venice Italy
What blog post about Murano would be complete without a photo of a glass workshop? A really bad one is the correct answer. So here is the thing, a tour of a glass shop is not free. I hear they used to be in some places, but almost everywhere started charging. I also hear the "salesmen" had some pretty shady tactics where they would entice tourists on the main island with a free glass blowing demonstration and boat ride to Murano. If you didn't buy anything after their ultra-high-pressure sales pitch, you were on your own getting back. So I didn't take any sort of tour, because the cheapest one was 10EUR for 5 minutes. Lucky for me some glass blower nearby left his windows open and went to lunch. I've seen glass blowing at the Corning factory in New York, it's all the same right?
Murano, Venice Italy 
However they didn't have a sculpture like this in New York. It's been a while since I've been there though, so maybe they do now. I doubt it. 
Murano, Venice Italy
Murano is sort of colorful, if a bit run down but the real color is on Burano. Yeah, I know it gets confusing with only the first letter being different, but Burano is a totally different world. It's a fishing village with a hefty paint budget. 
Burano, Venice Italy

Maybe not that hefty, or someone is slacking. The island was peaceful and people seemed to just be working there, like normal people do. Like the man below, attending to his nets. It looks like a beautiful scene with colorful homes to me, but to him it's just another Friday. 

Burano, Venice Italy

As I approached Burano on the Vaporetto I started to notice something a little off. I got the suspicion that perhaps Italy has a tower problem. I couldn't be completely sure until I made landfall.

Burano, Venice Italy

Yeah, it looks like there is something wrong with this picture. Well, I mean, I took it so there is nothing wrong with the actual picture, but something seems a bit -- off. The houses are beautiful and colorful and a little extra saturated because it's cloudy and there are a lot of shadows because it's cloudy but the tower in the back on the left appears to be listing a bit.

Burano, Venice Italy

Yes, it is in fact listing. No one seemed to care. There is a school playground right next to it. Everyone when about their business acting like the thing wasn't going to fall down any time soon. I've heard the one is Pizza is way worse, so who cares right? There's cappuccino to drink and laundry to hang.

Burano, Venice Italy

The last thing I will say about Burano is that the restaurants are extremely expensive. I suggest you eat before you go. Also, I think the place is famous for lace. People where selling handmade lace in shops and at stands all over the central square on Burano. I'm not really a lace kind of guy, so it didn't really matter to me.

Thanks for reading. I have no idea where I'll take this next time but I still have a ton of photos to show you I'm just as clueless about it as you.

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Monday, August 1, 2016

Ahhhh Venice, part 1

This grand Italian escapade of mine you have been reading culminates in Venice. Ahhhh Venice, it is a romantic city. It's also a very expensive city. I'll give you a few pointers, but I'll start with a couple of things I want to get out of the way with respect to Venice in general.

I was in Venice for four days and I think it was a bit too much. I didn't hit a lot of museums and was basically just wandering aimlessly. I should have spent more time in Rome. The best food I had in Venice isn't on the island, but the mainland. I could probably do a few blog posts just on the food in Italy, the country is famous for food though. If you don't like walking -- stay the heck away from Venice.
Venice Italy
My biggest tip for Venice is buy the daily pass for the Vaporetti and get your money's worth. One ride, one way on the water bus costs €7.50 ouch. A one-day all you can ride pass is €20 and a three-day pass is €40, if I remember right. I bought the three day and I rode those suckers anywhere from 50 meters to several dozen miles. The last day I didn't have a pass and I just walked all over the main island. If you want to see any of the other islands in Venice at all you're going to need to take some kind of boat. Swimming isn't an option I endorse. 
Bridge of Sighs Venice Italy

Of course, the most romantic way to travel in Venice is via gondola. It's also hands down the most expensive. The rates are €60 or €80 per hour as far as prices of things in Europe go, I'm told you can buy sex for about the same price in some places. The photo you see above is of gondolas at the Bridge of Sighs; it got way more crowded under there as this is THE place to take a gondola ride. 

Torcello Venice Italy
Another slightly cheaper option is taking a water taxi. Many of them are beautiful boats and there are established stands all over the place. The taxi driver you see above is on the island of Torcello waiting for his customers to return. Torcello seems like as good a place to start as any, so let's do that. 

Torcello is one of the oldest populated islands in Venice and used to have the most people, but now something like 75 people live there. There is not a ton of stuff to do, but it is quite peaceful. There is a cathedral.

Torcello Venice Italy

Evidently the cathedral has some impressive mosaics inside. I didn't go see them and honestly didn't know about them until googling around for this post. I was just enjoying a place that wasn't crawling with tourists. There were some tourists, yes but not a whole lot of them.

Torcello Venice Italy

The Torcello cathedral also has a tower, which makes sense. Admission to the museum at the cathedral also allows you to climb the tower, or I think you can just do the tower. I figured that since there really isn't a whole not to see on the island and the sky was a bit drab, that I would skip the hike to the top of the tower this time around. It looks like it's been there for a few hundred years, so I'm sure it will be there next time I visit. 

Torcello Venice Italy

There was some really good light while I was on the island though and I was able to get a few frames I liked. The one above is still in the cathedral, or the outside areas of it anyway. I wandered around on the island for maybe two hours and saw almost every building there is to see. I may have even accidentally trespassed into someone's field. 

Torcello Venice Italy

The photo above is still on Torcello and I liked the colors and the flowers in the statue's hand. There was a lady sitting on that bench for like 45 minutes though and I had to pass by several times waiting for her to move so I could take this photo. Trust me, it's much nicer without that lady in the ugly red tee shirt in the photo. 

Torcello Venice Italy

There were some other colorful, beautiful doors and such on Torcello. There was also a stone easy chair that was remarkably comfortable. I made myself quite the nuisance while taking a photo of myself in it. No, it wasn't a selfie, my camera has a timer. I was there for a while though and a nice Scottish couple waited patiently for me to leave.

A few hours on Torcello really is enough. Evidently one of the oldest restaurants in Venice is there. Restaurants on the main island are expensive. Restaurants on the outlying islands are ridiculous, no one wants to pay €20 for a crappy appetizer, so I hopped a Vaporetto back to the main island.

Venice Italy

Remember when I said swimming wasn't a good idea? The whole Ventian lagoon, and thusly canal system, is a yucky green color. I'm sure people fall in from time to time, but I'm sure they don't like it. I think if you want to go for a swim the best bet is to take the Vaporetto to the edge of the lagoon and hit the Adriatic.

Again food, and then I'll shut up about it. I was told by several people that my usual traveling style of wandering around and looking for something that looks good at random doesn't really work in Venice. A British friend of mine said, "there are a bunch of small places and they are all a rip off and they are ALL crap." Look, if anyone knows how to complain, it's a Brit but when you get the same basic story from several people, you listen. Also, don't eat pizza in Venice. They have had a ban on pizza ovens for like a century so the pizza isn't the best. That said, I made some plans and got super lucky a few times. I'll tell you about my luck.

Venice Italy

You see those OG degos up there chilling around a barrel? This is what you want to look for. This place was right next to a fish market on the island of Murano and you'd have to look for it, but I got my self lost and lucked out. No one was speaking English in the place, another sign that things might be alright, and the lady behind the counter barely did. I pointed some cicchetti, these Italian version of tapas things, that looked good, asked for a capuccino and went out to sit near the Italian conference you see above. It was lunch time and these dudes were pounding prosecco.

Everything I had at this place was freaking amazing and it was like $15, which is insanely cheap for Venice. Look for the old school conference, you won't be disappointed. Another thing, if you're in the U.S. especially you haven't had coffee until you've had it in Italy. I kind of hate cappuccino, I was swilling the stuff like coke in Italy and it was delicious.

Venice Italy




I made a google map with restaurants that I researched beforehand and geotagged. I'm so smart. A word of warning, your GPS is going to suck in Venice, the buildings are too close together. The guy in the photo above was a worker at once of those places I tagged and I gorged myself on octopus and prosecco there, leaving fat and buzzed, don't let his tragically unItalian shoe choice make you think he's not authentic. So, the absolute, hands down, bar none best restaurant in Venice is a place called Macaco and is on the mainland in Mestre. I can't say enough good things about this place, get there early because it gets packed quickly. The owner even called the chef who made my food to ask about allergens, talk about service. This place is another cicchetti place so you get to eat a lot of different things. Another word of note about restaurants in Venice, you pay extra if you want to sit down. The food is cheaper if you just stand around the bar and eat.

Another place that was super cheap and had delicious food actually was a random find for me near the main food market on the main island in Venice. It was actually a small deli type shop for groceries etc. There was a sign stuck to some dish in the display fridge/counter that said, "it doesn't look like much but it's delicious." I figured that is an excellent endorsement so I went inside to check it out. The were two Italian guys stuffing their faces at the end of the counter and when I tried to ask the little old lady running the place I discovered she didn't speak English. The two nice Italian guys took time out from their feast to help me get this odd sun-dried tomato olive, ricotta vinaigrette something salad from the lady. I may have paid €4 for a huge portion. As the Italian guys said, "she's feeding us like we're her grandsons" and they were right, she was very generous. Look, if you know me you know that I think olives are some of the most disgusting things on Earth. To say I loathe olives would be the understatement of a lifetime, this really unappealing salad stuffed with olives was AMAZING. I couldn't stop eating it.  

Venice Italy

While the above photo may seem a bit random after chatting about food, it ties in well with this whole post. It's the tower my lead photo at the top was taken from, the San Marco Campanile.  It's Venice so you know there is going to be more, so check back in two weeks and enjoy it while I panic a little bit about how I'm going to fill this space after all my Italian material is used up.

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